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95 Metro; won't start in the cold.
Topic Started: Dec 31 2017, 11:43 AM (398 Views)
RAD63.
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My 1995 Metro won't start when the weather is 20 degrees or below, it does crank just wont fire. But will start if I prime it. What could be the cause?
Edited by RAD63., Dec 31 2017, 11:51 AM.
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

Please explain how you "prime it"
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RAD63.
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I pour a little gas in the throttle body
Edited by RAD63., Dec 31 2017, 11:57 AM.
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

RAD63.
Dec 31 2017, 11:53 AM
Pour a little gas in the throttle body
I've never had to prime any of my Metro's to start them, so that's a new one to me.
Do you have the capability to test fuel pressure?
Have you done anything to the car recently like a tune up, or replaced any parts??
Edited by 1DCGUY, Dec 31 2017, 12:06 PM.
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RAD63.
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We got this car in August and never had a problem until the temp was at about 20 degrees. It ran perfect until then. We haven't done any tune ups or repairs. Don't have the capability to test the fuel pressure. Right now the temp is 14 degrees and it's plugged in, just now primed it and it kicked right off. It runs fine once started. It's starts fine as long as the engine is warm.
Edited by RAD63., Dec 31 2017, 12:30 PM.
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1DCGUY
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Don't be a "Richard"

RAD63.
Dec 31 2017, 12:26 PM
We got this car in August and never had a problem until the temp was at about 20 degrees. It ran perfect until then. We haven't done any tune ups or repairs. Don't have the capability to test the fuel pressure. Right now the temp is 14 degrees and it's plugged in, just now primed it and it kicked right off. It runs fine once started. It's starts fine as long as the engine is warm.
I've never had issues with fuel injectors, but it sure sounds like it might be your issue.
I'm going to defer to folks who have had this problem in the past, so stay tuned for someone to chime in for further assistance.
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RAD63.
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I will check on that and thanks for your input, much appreciated.
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sphenicie


Oh, you started a new thread.......go back and see my response in the old one.

Start with the simple possibilities, fuel line anti freeze is only a couple bucks. Use the isopropyl (red) variety, as it REMOVES water. Put it in, then prime and start the car, either let it idle or drive it to get it thru the system, good 10 miles or so.

go from there, new fuel filter would be a good idea, since you haven't ever changed it. It is quite likely there is accumulated water in the filter and the filter is down low where it will get real cold. it is under the car, in front of and inboard of the drivers rear wheel. I splice out the OE filter and cut in a METAL, in line filter, up under the hood. <$5.
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menc
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I used a $20 harbor freight fuel pressure test kit...Sometimes I have to rig-up a connection,,,most of the time just some different size hose or pipe fittings,Tee fitting or copper tubing,, and hose clamps...I have a 3 foot extension hose so I can drive down the road with it hooked up...I just run it under the back of the hood so I can see the gauge through the windshield. It is worth its weight in gold with fuel pressure and pump problems.
Edited by menc, Dec 31 2017, 02:06 PM.
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Stubby79
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Mayhaps your battery voltage is sagging too much to power the ECU/injector properly while cranking...since you're pouring gas down the throttle body, you're putting enough in it to allow you to stop cranking once it fires and after that, the battery/system voltage comes back up high enough to let the ecu/injector fire properly.

Just my thoughts on a possible reason. There are various ways to test if it is true or not. (battery warmer, jump-starting it, monitoring system voltage while cranking...)
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freegeo
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1DCGUY has a good idea. Check your fuel pressure at the throttle body. Check it with the key on engine off and with the engine idling.

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Another thing to check would be the start signal to the ECM. The ECM uses this signal to adjust the pulse width of the fuel injector, it is for starting enrichment. You will need a volt meter to check the voltage at the the ECM. You should see battery voltage to the C11 (black / yellow) wire when the engine is cranking over. If that checks out good then the engine coolant temp sensor can be checked against a resistance chart to see if could have a skewed signal to the ECM.

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Edited by freegeo, Jan 1 2018, 10:53 AM.
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GeoStalker
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"Chicks dig me and guys think I'm cool."

The first and simplest test to complete is COMPRESSION!! What are the numbers? Because an engine with poor compression can be manipulated to fire up with gas at the throttle body, but it won't last long.
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ranger88den
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I don't know if this is applicable, but, my '96 1.3 had a had a heater on the underside (into intake manifold) of the throttle body, to assist cold weather starts.
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Dystopiate666
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Tree Banger

I worked on a vehicle that was slow to fire, cranked strong but did not want to fire right away.....then it got to where every now and then it wouldn't kick over on the first try but never failed on the second...then one day wouldn't fire at all without fuel priming (usually just 2 or 3 drops from a straw straight through the wingnut opening on top of the filter housing)...after that, ran fine with zero other major driveability issues...I live in AZ...it wasn't cold so it's not really a dead ringer for your scenario but clos enough that I would mention....

....long story to ask a simple question....

Is the fuel pump priming?
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RAD63.
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It still wasn't starting so he
checked to see if it was sparking and it wasn't. He checked the ground. Then he unhooked positive cable and rehooked it. Gave it a try and it started without priming it. Surprised the heck out of him. Hope it will start every time now. He is going to let it get cold again and see if it will start w/o priming it. Hopefully that was the trick


Edited by RAD63., Jan 7 2018, 12:37 PM.
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