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alignment; tire wear
Topic Started: Jan 7 2018, 03:47 AM (427 Views)
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tire wear on outside of tire, I replace all front wheel bearings , order in both a arms , ball joints are bad, so i am puting on new a arms , is there caster ajustment ? , all so put on new axals , and tie rods
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If you're doing all of that, then to the struts and upper strut mounts too. I've seen rear struts cause the inside edge to wear badly. Never understood why, but replacing the struts certainly fixed it.

There's no caster adjustment, you'd need to slot the holes at the top to change that. There are eccentric bolts available for the bottom of the strut to adjust camber, but if you need them something else is wrong.

Your 92 and 97 use different control arms, the 97 's are longer and would throw off camber quite a lot. Putting early control arms on a later car would cause outside tire wear.
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First, Welcome to the Fun... :greet

Have you had the alignment checked and the toe adjusted since installing parts?
If you had, can you post the #'s
Caster is not a tire wearing angle, but, will cause steering problems...
Usually the outside edge tire wear is caused by the camber being off, or having a toe in condition...
mostly caused by the tie rods being weak (you stated you replaced those), did you replace both inner and outer?...
Or possibly the struts being weak...
One other thing could be the unibody itself...
How are the frame horns?, has the body had any collision damage?
Edited by geogonfa, Jan 7 2018, 01:18 PM.
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Jan 7 2018, 09:56 AM
Have you had the alignment checked and the toe adjusted since installing parts?

Usually the outside edge tire wear is caused by the camber being off, or having a toe out condition...
Agree to get alignment check but toe-in will cause outer tire wear. Toe out will cause inner wear.

You can check toe yourself. Jack the front up, spin the tires and stripe them with a ball point pen (can't trust just measuring the tread blocks), then lower the car, settle the suspension (roll back and then forward a bit) and with a helper measure the distance between the pen marks on the backside and frontside of the front tires. Adjust each outer tie rod end an equal amount to make the distances either equal, or just a hair shorter on the front of the tire than the back (to give it a smidge of toe-in).
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How much does an alignment of two front wheels go for these days?
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I have had similar issues with the tire wear. Had it aligned several times in the past 15 years and still had the same results with it burning the inside of the front tires off. I finally took it to another shop and the older guy that did the alignments told me I needed cam bolts. I bought and installed them and then took it back to save a hundred bucks and he aligned it. Been good ever since. However, my right rear wheel has a similar issue now and has been through bearings 2 times in the last 4 years. I did some more research and found that a bad bushing that holds the spindle (knuckle, whatever you want to call it) to the control arm could be allowing too much play and movement. I took it back to the alignment guy and asked for a 4 wheel alignment this time. He checked it out and then showed me that the bushing I just mentioned was pretty much toast and said that he would be wasting his time and my money if he aligned it because it would never hold. I found a replacement bushing online and just got it yesterday. After tearing it apart a little bit ago, I found the bolt that goes through that bushing to be a little sketchy. I am not sure if you call it a cam bolt or what the technical term is for it but I can not find anywhere that carries a "rear cam bolt". Does anyone have any idea where to find one or have any other ideas? It's in bad enough shape I think it needs changed. Thanks in advance for any assistance
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