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Anybody Converted Hubs to 5 Lug?; Custom is a headache
Topic Started: Feb 10 2018, 11:18 PM (372 Views)
Kik
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I know...have mill, will drill.

But after searching, I've not come up with anything on our cars.
The bossing on the backside of our hubs might prohibit this as an
easy, peasy thing to do. One could always add to the back of the hub
but that don't feel kosher just yet.

I've read thru SolerPower's recent postings on the spacer thing and the 4 to 5 lug
measurements. I'm guessing one of the 4 lug holes would be used in a 5 lug (114.3")
bolt circle.

I do not want to do an adapter...throws me to the curb a minimum of 1.75". I'm set on
a deeper dished wheel and the wheels cannot be re-drilled to accommodate the
change. 5 spokes do not work with 4 lug...at least in my choice.

I've been in Google hell for several hours and found myself deep in the darkest hollers
of the interwebs. You've been there, I know. I thought I was making grand discoveries
using early Mitsu Mirage hubs/bearings but alas...I was still 2mm off. Still just 4 lugs but 4x100 pattern.

After all these years, I still haven't learned my lesson. The guy that said anything custom is
asking for troubles knew what he was saying. But to my credit, I have learned some new
cusswords along the way and I've even been known to invent a few new vulgarities in my
search for proper custom...wifey will attest to that. Her eyes get big as silver dollars.

If anyone has looked into this and can slap me back into reality, I'd appreciate it.
I would have to drill new rotors each time I needed to change out but that's not a problem.


Sooo...are there any 5 lug Metros or Swifts out there? I expect crickets unless you've been down this road too.
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suzukitom
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Tom

Is it that you just have to have 5 lugs, or is it because you have your eye on choosing wheel styles that only come in a 5 × 114.3 mk5 bolt circle?

If it is the latter, you could always look for undrilled wheel center type wheels and have them drilled to match your stock 4 lug hubs.


Example:
http://www.bbwheelsonline.com/15-inch-wheel-blanks-custom-drilled-bolt-patterns/

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solerpower
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The 88 to 92 Mazda MX-6, 626, and Ford Probe have similar design for the rear with 5 Lug. I'll take a look since I have parts laying around for both vehicles. Yeah, you cannot drill the rears to 5 lug without welding on another ring of metal possibly to the outside and drilling through both. In example a 10 mm hub centric wheel spacer that is drilled for all 5 lugs to press in your longer studs. Then you would weld the edges of both spacer and hub together. I would not recommend this, but it would probably give you the support you need for the additional 4 lugs. It would lock together from the middle because it is hub centric and the weld would keep it from coming apart. I don't know if the stud backings would clear the other three protrusion on the back side of the hub for the original studs. You would have to grind a little bit on two of backings. This would still be a lot of work to make it 5 lug and this would bring you rears out 10 mm or .39 inches, but a lot better then 1 + inches you mentioned above.
Edited by solerpower, Feb 11 2018, 11:53 AM.
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Kik
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@suzukitom

<Is it that you just have to have 5 lugs, or is it because you have your eye on choosing wheel styles that only come in a 5 × 114.3 mk5 bolt circle?>

5 x 114.3 opens possibilities although most of these wheels are considerably heavier.

<If it is the latter, you could always look for undrilled wheel center type wheels and have them drilled to match your stock 4 lug hubs.>

That's too easy...and costly. B-)

@solerpower

<The 88 to 92 Mazda MX-6, 626, and Ford Probe have similar design for the rear with 5 Lug>

They have the bolt pattern but that's where it stops.

<Yeah, you cannot drill the rears to 5 lug without welding on another ring of metal possibly to the outside and drilling through both>

I'm not following you on this. Drilling for 5 lugs on a 114.3 bolt circle keeps the holes in that same
radius. To clarify...I'm considering drilling a 5 lug pattern in hub (like a rear '89 GTi below).

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Here I have laid your pattern from your spacer thread over an image of a GTi rear rotor and scaled it to near radius...not exact but I wanted to get an idea how the original 4 lug holes would intersect the new 5 lug holes using one of the original 4 lug holes. Obviously, original 4 lugs in red, new 5 lugs in green.


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I'd still want to address the backside of the hub for the new 5 lug pattern...that may or may not be an issue. I'm sure it's for strengthening the lug areas.

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<this would bring you rears out 10 mm or .39 inches, but a lot better then 1 + inches you mentioned above.>

10mm wouldn't be a problem. I'll do extended fender flares anyway and I could match the rubber and flare. The 1.75" minimum of any adapter to change 4 to 5 is a killer though...at least for me. If I was 17 again and wanted to rice it, that wouldn't be a problem till my wheel fell off or a bearing went south due to extended load.
Edited by Kik, Feb 11 2018, 04:20 PM.
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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

Why not just slap a set of something like these wheels on it, and be done with it? At 12.1 lb each, they're lighter than the stock 13" steelies, and the 14" rim size will open up a host of, performance oriented, tire selections from which to choose? Also, at a mere $81.97 each, you're not likely to find anything else any cheaper; not since Pep Boys discovered their egregious on-line pricing error, and corrected it.

http://www.bbwheelsonline.com/konig-lightning-26mb-wheels-rims-14x6-4x100-4x4-5-4x114-3-black-machined-38mm-offset-26MB-LI46D04385/

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Kik
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@PTA2PTB

1. Done been there and done that on the MBs on a '99 model I had.

2. I'm a glutton for punishment.

3. I got a certain wheel in mind.
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solerpower
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Yeah the Mazda ones are too big of a bearing. I didn't have a hub on hand to get the rest of the measurements, but that is way too much work to make any of it work. The spacer like I said above would require you to grind down two of the support hub and drilling the green dots that you have in your picture and sandwiching them both together. You would end up with four of the studs going through the thinner part, but using the 10 mm of the spacer as the strength of the piece. With the sides welded, a hubcentric center, and 5 studs locking the two together I don't see it breaking outward. However, I still wouldn't do it.
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