Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
DO NOT TOUCH!; ISC/throttle stop screws
Topic Started: Feb 12 2018, 01:08 AM (347 Views)
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
OK, first off, I didn't do it! Second, a brief check of the topics that I have begun will shed light on my Metro background and adventure. That being said, I will make this short and sweet. I swapped a 96 1.0 engine for my 94 1.0, in so doing, I had to re-use the 94 intake and thermostat housing because the electrical connectors were different. The PO took her to a mechanic whom I know fooled with the throttle stop screw, and very possibly, the TPS, throttle adjustment set screw (on top of throttle body right near the injector) and or the screw that the ISC presses against. I reset the throttle stop screw to 1/8" and my high idle issue is darn near corrected. I still can't start her without giving her a little gas so I am going to reset the TPS to correspond with the new throttle stop screw position, but I can't find any info referencing the screw on the intake linkage that the ISC presses. I checked the unmolested 96 intake and there are definitely threads and a jam nut on this part. Is there a way for me to verify the gap on this like the throttle stop screw?

Thanks in advance for the help. The wealth of knowledge along with patience and cooperation from the Geo-Sages with Geo-Dummies like me is priceless!
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Woodie
Member Avatar


Hopefully the distributor was swapped too. 96 distributor will not work in a 94.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
Yes, swapped the distributor also.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
I suppose I will just leave the screw in question alone for now, until I confirm the resistance on the TPS.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
freegeo
Member Avatar


Maybemaybenot
Feb 12 2018, 01:46 PM
I suppose I will just leave the screw in question alone for now, until I confirm the resistance on the TPS.
That's a good idea.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geogonfa
Member Avatar


This is what has helped me for years... :type
I repair a lot of DIY'ers boo boo's who think that that screw is what adjusts the idle...

Ok, Either do this on the car or remove the TBI (prefered if you have a spare TBI gasket)...

Note: If you have a Idle Speed Controller (ISC) disconnect and remove the ISC from the TBI so the plunger is not contacting the throttle arm.

The throttle link arm will now be resting on the throttle stop screw.
Loosen off the locknut on the throttle stop screw and back the screw out until the throttle valve is completely closed and the adjuster screw is not touching the link.
Now manually open the throttle a couple of times and let it snap shut to insure it is completely closed.
Tighten in the adjuster till it touches the throttle link and give it a tiny bit more. I do mean "TINY"...
Note: The screw is not intended to set idle or affect it at all.
The stop is meant to prevent wear on the throttle plate and the bore of the throttle body, nothing else.
Now reassemble everything and Adjust the TPS to spec.

Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
MR1 Kingsbury
Member Avatar
Exp. builder/rebuilder

:thumb :gp This readjustment works remarkably well to get the goofy idle speed back where it belongs.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
Thanks geogonfa! Your post confirmed to me that I reset the throttle stop screw already. Except the part about removing the ISC. I will go back and confirm the procedure without the ISC in place. Now, my question is this. My throttle linkage has a threaded screw with a lock nut that touches the plunger on the ISC. (You know the one that people have said to glue a dime to) I can neither confirm nor deny that this has been fiddled with. Can I verify the distance from this to the plunger so that the plunger travel is jive?

And by the way, the PO and the mechanic are both separate dear friends of mine and it had made for a more than awkward position for me in the first place not to mention since I have the title now!
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sser2
sser2

The gap between ISC actuator and throttle lever is 3.0 mm on non-working engine as of FSM. This is for 98-00, 96-97 should be the same, although I am not sure.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
Sser2, so I would also assume the same for a 94 intake?
Edited by Maybemaybenot, Feb 12 2018, 09:49 PM.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
sser2
sser2

Let me look into it.

From what I found, ISC is used in 1994 and newer Metros, so '94 is same as newer models. Suzuki Engine Manual says that ISC comes factory-adjusted as assembly with throttle body, and should not be tampered with. 3 mm gap is indicated in 1998-2000 factory shop manuals - I guess in the case someone had screwed up the settings.
Edited by sser2, Feb 13 2018, 01:28 AM.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
sser2
Feb 12 2018, 11:08 PM
Let me look into it.

From what I found, ISC is used in 1994 and newer Metros, so '94 is same as newer models. Suzuki Engine Manual says that ISC comes factory-adjusted as assembly with throttle body, and should not be tampered with. 3 mm gap is indicated in 1998-2000 factory shop manuals - I guess in the case someone had screwed up the settings.
Sser2 Thanks for the insight! Like I said I can neither confirm nor deny any foolery on this intake. I was very disappointed to hear that goons at my friends shop monkied with the intake after replacing the head. I'm not even a bonifide mechanic and I know that if the car idled right before the head replacement, then it's not the intake's fault that it won't run. My go-to would have been the timing being off when the distributor was put back. Also, it doesn't help that this shop is one of the most expensive in town and they stood behind their work. The car was worse off when it left than when it came in, but "nothing we did"... like I said AWKWARD because I bought the car off my friend and fixed most of the issues. I can say with certainty that it was in fact something that my mechanic friends shop did and cost my other friend like $2600 and the car still wasn't right.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
OK we're making headway. Let me begin by saying thanks to all for the help. You have made setting the throttle stop screw and throttle position sensor immeasurably less troublesome. However, I still haven't been able to find a baseline setting for the set screw that IS ON the throttle linkage. It is on the underside. It's head comes into direct contact with the idle speed control motor plunger. It has an allen with a star-shaped lock nut under the throttle linkage which an 8mm socket loosely fits. It most likely is an antitamper bolt, but as we have already seen, antitamper and DON'T SCREW WITH THESE SETTINGS means nothing to some. Anyhow, with the 96 intake as a reference, I roughly reset this bolt and lock nut. I estimated about 4-5 threads showing. You actually have to turn the throttle linkage to wide open position and use a 6" extension on a 1/4" ratchet and go between the two fuel lines on the front of the throttle body to get at the nut. To tighten it I just held the other side of the studd with my right hand as I turned the 1/4" ratchet with my left. Much to my satisfaction, the car started right off with about 1/2 revolution. There may still be some minor tweaks left, but I hope this helps others as they may find themselves in the same spot!

Also, as I am fairly new to the forum, I am still unsure of the proper procedure for attaching pictures. I gladly will text them to someone with more savvy than me!
Edited by Maybemaybenot, Feb 13 2018, 11:21 PM.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
Here is my attempt at attaching a photo... standby

Please let me know if the image can't be seen.

If you can see it, you should be able too see in one image, the threads on said bolt. In the other, you should be able to see the star sided lock-nut on the back side of the linkage...
Attached to this post:
Attachments: Metro_Throttle_Linkage.jpg (44.11 KB)
Attachments: metro_Idle_Speed_Control_Stop_Screw.jpg (37.18 KB)
Edited by Maybemaybenot, Feb 14 2018, 03:54 PM.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
Maybemaybenot
Noob
[ *  *  * ]
And by the way, this photo is one of the spare throttle body, not the one that is on the car. The yellow marks on te lock nut are not on the current one on the car. I merely used this one as a reference.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Intake and Exhaust Systems · Next Topic »
Add Reply