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3.52 tranny on my 1995; 3.52
Topic Started: Apr 18 2018, 01:31 PM (823 Views)
greengeo1995
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Hi GMF!!!

Just bolt in 3.52 tranny on my 3cyl ‘95
And unknowingly the outcome is doin ok,
but due to my new job mostly in downtown(not usually solid flat, uphill/downhill,
and so much of stop and go traffic lights)
I’m aware and I have read here That MPG would be suck in the city driving.

My question is, could I still get away with the 3.52 tranny
If I’m after with the fuel economy e.g. by doing that 3tech cam and gear?
Or also along with replacing my 175/70/13 on all 4’s with
a lil’ smaller tire but still on 13’s?

Thank you in advance GMF!!!

Note: But if all of this is not gonna be on FE that
I’m after with, maybe I’ll be finding those
stock tranny for 1995.


Edited by greengeo1995, Apr 18 2018, 01:41 PM.
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freegeo
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You will have you stay in the lower gears. Lighter rims and and smaller tires would help some too.
Edited by freegeo, Apr 19 2018, 08:54 AM.
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MarkZ28


I dont know how it even moves with a 3 cylinder. I have a 3.52 in my 98 sedan with the 1.3 4 banger and it does ok but have to slip the clutch a little bit more than with the 4.39 that was in it.
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Woodie
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Going from 4.39 to 3.52 is a HUGE jump, going to be hard on the clutch (and the patience). The only way I would recommend this big a leap would be for pure, flat highway. There are two other steps in between that would be a better choice. If your engine is in excellent condition with an XFI cam or economy cam with advance sprocket, and you're a very patient sort, then maybe it would work. Mix in hills and a lot of stop and go and you'll probably be miserable.

Shorter tires would help, the 165/60-13's that came on convertibles had the same overall diameter as the 12" wheel/tire combination on the GEN2 cars. That would change your gear ratio one step shorter, problem is, you've gone three steps taller. If you went this route, get a speedometer drive gear from a car with 12" wheels so that your speedo/odo still read correctly.

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sphenicie


I have to repeat everything Woodie just said.

I put a 3.52 in my 95, so I can speak from first hand experience.

My daily commute is generally 200 +/- miles, so lots of hiway. Driving the 3.52 would generally be like driving a four speed, with 5th for interstate driving only.


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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

sphenicie
Apr 19 2018, 06:07 AM
I have to repeat everything Woodie just said.

I put a 3.52 in my 95, so I can speak from first hand experience.

My daily commute is generally 200 +/- miles, so lots of hiway. Driving the 3.52 would generally be like driving a four speed, with 5th for interstate driving only.


At what speed, assuming traveling over flat-ish terrain, are you able to engage 5th, and at what speed does it start to bog down? How low can you get your engine rpm's, before it bogs down?

I still have yet to install my 3.52 tranny, but I'm wondering if I'll still be able to putt along at 50mph with it in 5th, after I do. I can do it now, with my stock 4.10 tranny and 178/70/13's, but the car is right at the edge of bogging down on me. If I get much below 50 mph, it doesn't like it, and I'd better be coasting downhill, or be prepared to downshift to 4th. But if I can get the same mpg while going 60-65 mph as I do now by putting along a 50-55 mph, I have no problem doing that.

Of course, things like:your cam, your tire size, and the extra weight of your car vs mine, would factor in heavily to greatly skew any real projections of what I can expect with mine. Dan'o, probably has the closest setup to what I'll be running, eventually.
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greengeo1995
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Been out for awhile...apologize for my delay reply.

@freegeo, Thanks alot, I'll keep on mind on that small tire and lighter rims, might try, but stayi'n on low gears-argh!

@MarkZ28, Thanks you! and with this 3.5 tranny, is it suck on city drive, on low gears alot and staying away on uphill alot, but highway damn so smooth, quiet and experiencing awesome low rpm's at 5th gear(they say felt like on 6th).

@Woodie Thank You! Yeah it is a huge jump and got speedo issues alot. thought about that XFI's cams and advance gear, I have some extra parts, might DIY it, like compJake did here in the forum(was posted few years back), and also might check 165/60-13's.
Thou, still mostly me driving around the city much would'nt help, like you said pure flat, and mostly highway is awesome!

@sphenicie and PTA2PTB - thanks....highway saves a lot of gas at 3.52 and mostly now is a pain driving around low gears at town.



Edited by greengeo1995, Apr 22 2018, 08:07 PM.
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greengeo1995
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What if changing transmission to 3.79 or 4.10 would help for sure I think?
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freegeo
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greengeo1995
Apr 22 2018, 06:45 PM
What if changing transmission to 3.79 or 4.10 would help for sure I think?
For in town. 4 10 would help.
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greengeo1995
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Ok 4.10, Thanks again freegeo!!!
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sphenicie


PTA2PTB
Apr 19 2018, 11:29 AM
sphenicie
Apr 19 2018, 06:07 AM
I have to repeat everything Woodie just said.

I put a 3.52 in my 95, so I can speak from first hand experience.

My daily commute is generally 200 +/- miles, so lots of hiway. Driving the 3.52 would generally be like driving a four speed, with 5th for interstate driving only.


At what speed, assuming traveling over flat-ish terrain, are you able to engage 5th, and at what speed does it start to bog down? How low can you get your engine rpm's, before it bogs down?

I still have yet to install my 3.52 tranny, but I'm wondering if I'll still be able to putt along at 50mph with it in 5th, after I do. I can do it now, with my stock 4.10 tranny and 178/70/13's, but the car is right at the edge of bogging down on me. If I get much below 50 mph, it doesn't like it, and I'd better be coasting downhill, or be prepared to downshift to 4th. But if I can get the same mpg while going 60-65 mph as I do now by putting along a 50-55 mph, I have no problem doing that.

Of course, things like:your cam, your tire size, and the extra weight of your car vs mine, would factor in heavily to greatly skew any real projections of what I can expect with mine. Dan'o, probably has the closest setup to what I'll be running, eventually.
Sorry i am slow...........

First, my 95 is a bit heavier. BUT, i have pre 95 front suspension, so i was able to swap 12" wheels. I would run 12's in summer, 13's in winter..........12's spin easier on ice/packed snow.

I would not shift into 5th on leval (ish), until 75. with either size tires. "what speed b4 starts to bog".....@ 75 with any incline. And this is with strong engine. 12's or smaller 13's help a little.

"putt along at 50 in 5th"......I dont think so, but i am not a hypermiler.....I GO! I run 3-3500 minimum.

I have been considering putting it in one of my 93's, but it is probably still going to be a lil tall for my likes. Even at 80-85mph, it didnt take much of an incline to start slowing it down.
Like i said, I had to drive it like a 4 speed. Even on rural highways, 65-70.....4th. But, that didn't really bother me. Dont really care what gear, I will drive it upper 3k's.

I like the 3.79 best for my driving style. Since i have a couple extra on hand i will probably just rebuild those.




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PTA2PTB
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I'm totally awesome! I swear.

sphenicie
Apr 23 2018, 07:26 AM
First, my 95 is a bit heavier. BUT, i have pre 95 front suspension, so i was able to swap 12" wheels. I would run 12's in summer, 13's in winter..........12's spin easier on ice/packed snow.

I would not shift into 5th on leval (ish), until 75. with either size tires. "what speed b4 starts to bog".....@ 75 with any incline. And this is with strong engine. 12's or smaller 13's help a little.

"putt along at 50 in 5th"......I dont think so, but i am not a hypermiler.....I GO! I run 3-3500 minimum.

I have been considering putting it in one of my 93's, but it is probably still going to be a lil tall for my likes. Even at 80-85mph, it didnt take much of an incline to start slowing it down.
Like i said, I had to drive it like a 4 speed. Even on rural highways, 65-70.....4th. But, that didn't really bother me. Dont really care what gear, I will drive it upper 3k's.

I like the 3.79 best for my driving style. Since i have a couple extra on hand i will probably just rebuild those.




Much as I hate the thoughts of "going backward", I have been toying with swapping back to my original steering knuckles and brakes. I don't know the actual weight difference, but my guess is that there is probably around 2 lbs worth of spinning weight that could be shaved from each front wheel, due to the non-vented type rotors, and maybe another 1/2 lb to 1lb of weight in the calipers.

As small a diameter of tire as I'll be running, 19.10" when I measured with a tape measure, I'm not really all that concerned with a loss of braking power, so much as I am at the eventual hassle of having to pull the hubs, and destroy the front bearing in the process, every time I want to service or replace the brake rotors.

I can't help but wonder if anyone has ever attempted a hybrid brake setup on a MKII Metro, to use the smaller non-vented rotors, but have them mount over top the hub, instead of beneath? I'm guessing, even it were possible, that you'd have to do much as Solerpower is currently doing, and buy the hats and rotors from Wildwood, at great expense, and engineer it yourself. You may even have to use their calipers, and engineer your own mounting bracket for it.

As for the speed, it's a double-edges sword. Going faster, does give you more momentum, and it gets your engine RPM's up, so that, in most setups, you're producing more engine HP, but the effects of wind resistance are not linear, and can easily produce far more drag on the car than what you gained. I guess I'll just have to wait and see how my car acts, and at what speeds. To give me any possibilty of a NET gain in mpg's, which is the whole point of the exercise, I figure I'd need to keep my average cruising hwy RPM's down below 2,400. If they go higher than that, I'm probably right back where I started. But I suppose there's at least a possibility of gaining more overall efficiency; like if I were to be burning 10% more fuel at my, new and increased, hwy cruising speed, but gain 20% in mph.
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suzukitom
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Tom

Quote:
 
I can't help but wonder if anyone has ever attempted a hybrid brake setup on a MKII Metro, to use the smaller non-vented rotors, but have them mount over top the hub, instead of beneath? I'm guessing, even it were possible, that you'd have to do much as Solerpower is currently doing, and buy the hats and rotors from Wildwood, at great expense, and engineer it yourself. You may even have to use their calipers, and engineer your own mounting bracket for it.


Many Mk2/3 Suzuki Cultuses sold in Japan markets had exactly that. My JDM 1991 G13BB 16v SOHC TBI has a solid rotor disc that is the same diameter but thinner than the vented rotor, and it slips onto the same hub used by cars equipped with either rotor. The same brake caliper also works on both types of rotors as the piston travel range is adequate.
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metroschultz
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Please just call me; "Schultz"

I have a 1999 3/5 (possibly the heaviest of the bunch) "CRE8R"
3.79 trans
175/70R13 tires
engine rebuilt many years back
head shaved .020 (20 thousandths)
standard cam
8* advance cam gear (I tried the 10, 6, &4. she seems to work best with 8)
Timing @ 14* initial advance (any more and she "pings")
This is just so you know my setup

I live in Norfolk, VA. A fairly large city full of cars & people & very little space. And perhaps the worst traffic of any VA city. On any given day, during rush hour, it can take 60 minutes to travel 8 miles. The northern portion of VA is ruled by the traffic from D.C. and is also stupidly congested.

I get 45mpg all the time on 10% ethanol regular pump gas. I was getting 50 on ethanol free gas, but that is not available by me anymore.
It does not matter how I drive.
Drive it like you stole it = 45
drive it like your grandma = 45
When I head for GeoPalooza I will be in 3rd on the way up most of the big hills. But I will still be cruising @ 55 - 60.
And I will still probably get 45. I will coast downhill with the engine off and using compression braking to slow down. This saves a lot of fuel and even some wear on my brakes.

So my recommendation is to go with one of the shorter ratio transmissions. Keep the 13" tires. they ride a little (very little) better and last longer (at least for me)
It will be a little less difficult to drive and give you reasonable mileage in the city.

My '92 (CPT SLO) has a lot more mods than this and weighs a lot less also.
She is very sensitive to driving style and will get between 45 & 55mpg depending on my foot through the tank. I had 2 tanks over 60, !!woot!!woot!!.

I hope this helps.
S.
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greengeo1995
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ok Guys thanks a lot awesome info!

@metroschultz, thanks you!!! yeah I have to go back to one of those shorter gear, got the 4.39 now, plannin to re-do it this summer.

@Suzukitom, special thanks to you for helping me alot on my greengeo!



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