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Replace expansion valve 2000 4/3 Metro
Topic Started: May 8 2018, 06:32 PM (167 Views)
91 ragtop
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My brother,who lives in Arizona, says that the guy at the A/C shop replaced both valves on the high and low pressure lines trying to find a leak and now he says the expansion valve is plugged and needs to be replaced. He doesn't want to fix it for him because he says the dash needs to come out to do it. It's starting to get hot down there and he needs A/C. Has anyone ever replaced one of these ? What does it take to fix ?


Ken.............
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geogonfa
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The dash does not need to be removed... :type
Takes about 20 min. for a good mechanic to pull the blower box and the evap core case...
See Geo's Garage for the write up...
http://geometroforum.com/topic/8111407/4/
Start at post #47
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Stiffchezze
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Sir Metrologist

Excellent stuff in the link!
Agreed, you don't have to pull the dash. It's ALOT easier if you do, but not necessary. Don't screw around though. Replace ALL of the o-rings and the dryer at the same time or continue to hunt leaks down the road. ^o)

If you do pull the dash order one of these:(shameless plug :D )
Link--->For Sale: HVAC Door Foam Set; $30 + Shipping
Actually you can order one anyway and go ahead and rebuild the blower motor and save the rest for later!

An easy test for the expansion valve. After you pull it, you should be able to blow through it easily (WARNING!! PAG oil is VERY toxic! One drop will make you instantly vomit like a freshman!) After that, put it in the freezer for about an hour. Then you should NOT be able to blow through it. Put the small bulb on the end in your hand and as the bulb heats up you should just barely be able to blow though the valve incrementally until you can blow though it easily as it gets back to room temp.
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blue_can
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[ *  * ]
If the expansion valve is indeed plugged it is also important to understand why and to fix the underlying issue. Did some debris get in during a previous repair? A leakstop product that hardened and then broke off plugging the expansion valve? Or possibly the receiver/dryer screen broke allowing the desiccant to get into the system and plug up the expansion valve.

I would suggest opening up the entire system to look for issues - if you just replace the expansion valve it may become plugged up again if you don't address the underlying issue.
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91 ragtop
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Knowing how my brother is he most likely put some kind of stop leak in it. So how would we fix it ? Would vacuuming the system work ?


Ken.............
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blue_can
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Unfortunately vacuuming will not help if there is debris in the system - it will need to be physically flushed out. Also without opening up the entire system it won't be obvious what the cause is. For example if the receiver/dryer has injected desiccant into the system only looking at the receiver/dryer and the rest of the system you can asses what has occurred.

Another complication is the condenser - in a 2000 (same as mine) they are micro channel which means if debris got into the system and plugged it up they are very difficult if not impossible to flush. The only solution is replacement. Not real way to tell if it is plugged up by observing - the pressure readings can tell you this if the rest of the system is fixed and the condenser is sufficiently plugged up.

Assuming the plugged TxV diagnosis is correct (normal to high liquid line pressure/high subcooling and near 0 suction pressure) no easy way around opening up the entire system for service. As a precaution you can install an in-line filter in the liquid line to prevent the TxV from plugging up due to a similar issue in the future. One possibility is to remove the TxV, see what is found and then go from there.
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geogonfa
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Disconnect the A/C lines from the compressor and the drier and flush...
using either one of these...
Auto parts house usually sell the flush can, Home Depot or Wally world sell the denatured alchol


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