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AC problem
Topic Started: Jun 1 2018, 06:37 PM (568 Views)
92MHB
Advanced Member
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So I've got a problem with my A/C and I have Zero knowledge of AC systems (almost)

I think its either an electrical issue or a compressor clutch issue--here is what is going on


in the morning when its cool outside, if I turn on the ac it seems to work fine --car has lower compression numbers on all 3 cylinders so it's low er HP so when the ac does kick in I can feel the motor labor a bit and my speeds slow if I'm low on RPM's (none of this is a problem just giving background info)

when it is hot outside ( lets say 80+ degrees) --if I push the ac button in town, I do not get an cold air and I can't feel the motor labor under it at all

once I get up into 5th gear and I'm cruising at 55-65 mph if I turn on the ac then I can feel the ac clutch engage the motor slows just a bit and I get cold air--- after about 5 minutes or so of it running ok it seems to me like the compressor clutch is slipping or just kicking in/out/in/out/etc

the longer I drive with the ac on, the less cold air and the more often the clutch kicks in/out


think this is a compressor clutch going? or the clutch solenoid having a problem? or something else? -- its not a slipping belt as I watch it at idle when it works and the belt does not slip when the ac clutch engages. Once its hot outside it won't kick in at all at higher rpms but often times will run cold when sitting at a light at idle


when it does blow cold, it is pretty darn cold-- but when its hot outside and I want it to work, it never seems to work worth a darn so the ac gets turned off and the windows get opened


thanks for any advice and help ahead of time
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Exp. builder/rebuilder

There is a pressure switch on the high side that may be going bad.... Have you checked the pressure of the 'freon' on the low side?
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geogonfa
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Possibly a lot of different things... :type
Because of all the symptoms you described I would check 3 things...
The first would be the temp cut off sensor (located in the lower intake right below the TPS and above the alternator),
simple test is to take that wire and ground it, then run the system and see if it still acts up...
The second would be the a/c amplifier (located behind the glovebox attached to the evap box, just slide it up out of it's holding tangs and then pull away and down) check to see if it has a burn smell and/or check the connector...
The third would be the pressure cut off switch (located in the high side line near the right strut tower) making sure its not leaking(has oil residue on it or a bad connection) the way to test is insert a paper clip jumper across the 2 wires causing the system to remain on...
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92MHB
Advanced Member
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thanks-- I'll see about checking a few things and see what I can find--- I do not have a way to check pressure on the system, also not sure what pressure it should be on the low side---I doubt it's a freon issue as it has run well since last july, and as I said when its cool outside it seems to run fine and plenty cold--its just starting to act up now


I really don't know much about ac systems but can the clutch slip? seems like it might be a slipping clutch since the hotter it gets outside the worse it seems to work, on the way to work in the morning IF i run it it seems to run fine, but in the afternoon when its 80+ degrees is when it gives me problems

if it is the clutch going, can just the clutch be replaced? I googles to see if I can find just the clutch and I can't seem to find one---I see compressors with clutch and compressors with out clutch but not just a clutch--If the whole thing needs to be replaced I'll have to take it somewhere for them to do it as I don't have proper tools or knowledge to mess with the refrigerant/freon in the system
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Mrbreeze


More than likely, your referigerant is low, but without actually checking your system, I'am just making a guess, you need to familiarize yourself with the A/C system that is in your car, it's not rocket science, but understanding your system will help you out tremendously, you need to be able to check the high and low pressures to be able to diagnose A/C issues.. you definitely have your work cut out for you, good luck, keep us posted as to how your progressing, if you would, thanks and good luck..
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Mrbreeze


I don't believe your having a clutch issue, it's more involved than that..
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Mrbreeze


More than likely, the pressure is on the low side, and that's why it kicking off..
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geogonfa
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To just replace the clutch assembly is more than just replacing the whole compressor...
finding out how much freon is still in the system would be a good thing...if the freon is low it will cycle the clutch rather fast...

Clutch...Suzuki 9521060B21 CLUTCH,MAGNET $ 209.27
https://www.ssg.asia/search.html?article=95210-60B21&brand=Suzuki&sort___search_results_by=final_price&term=0&smode=A
Compressor...Rockauto...
FOUR SEASONS 77311 Reman; Compressor w/ Clutch; Bolt on A/C Connections Info
w/ 10P08E Compressor;
$147.79 core $25.00 $172.79
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MR1 Kingsbury
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Exp. builder/rebuilder

Is your system still running on R-12? the early style freon that isn't used much anymore? that does it make it kinda tricky since it is ILLEGAL to discharge the stuff into atmosphere.
R 134 is the current style in all cars since the mid 90's.
someone on here may know whether or not the 93's had 134 or 12. If it is 134 you can buy a can at the parts store that comes with a connector and gauge to read pressure on the low side...
Edited by MR1 Kingsbury, Jun 2 2018, 07:18 PM.
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Mrbreeze


That's a good point, I never considered that, do let us know..
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Woodie
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94 was when they switched over to 134a.
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92MHB
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I should probably just take it in, just hate to pay someone else
Edited by 92MHB, Jun 4 2018, 08:06 PM.
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92MHB
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ok-- my work has the ability to do 134 systems--I just have to figure out how to retrofit from 12 to 134
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geometromaniac


Early Geo Metro running R12 do not cool well when you switch to R134. R134 is 30% less efficient than R12. You need a bigger condenser and the evaporator valve has to be changed. You can try and use R12a which is a hydrocarbon refrigerant. It is a mixture of propane and butane. It will work with any oil in the system. To change to 134 you need to flush the system of oil as it will not mix well with mineral oil of R12. I have used it here in Florida and it works well. R134 does not do well in an early Metro believe me I know. When you live here in Florida you NEED AC
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nwgeo


I have a 94 XFI had no AC, I knew very very little about AC. I read some(mostly on here), and then grabbed all the parts from the junk yard.

I had a complete dry system. I pick up a self doing kit at Walmart for like $15 I added some of the AC oil, 2oz. and like one can of the Freon 134a through the self doing kit and then a little more, The kit from Walmart has a gauge that tells you if your charge is at the correct pressure. This takes a while to do maybe 30 to 60 minutes, you have to start the car, run the AC on full and hold the valve closed to allow the Freon to go into your system. If you have some cold then you should not need much freon to get the proper pressure.

I take care of many friends cars and I have topped off a number of cars AC systems when they are not running at peak performance due to low pressure, many of these cars are 20 to 25 years old.

My 94 had the standard AC system for that year and worked great even in 100F temperatures with 134a freon.

I now use a 97 as my daily driver. It has a little different style AC and runs 134a as well and also works great. The AC did not work when I bought the car. I just charge the system with Freon and nice and cold.

Both cars were the 1.0L 3cyl 5 speed and I could differently feel it when have it running at freeway speeds.

Both cars AC systems lost some functionality at idle speed at stop lights.



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