Welcome Guest [Log In] [Register]
Posted ImageWelcome to the all new Geo Metro Forum. We hope you enjoy your visit.

You're currently viewing our forum as a guest. This means you are limited to certain areas of the board and there are features you can't use and images you can't see. Registration is simple, fast, and completely free. If you're already a member please log in to your account to access all of our features:

Join our community!




Username:   Password:
Add Reply
AC problem
Topic Started: Jun 1 2018, 06:37 PM (569 Views)
nwgeo


FYI There should also be a switch on your accelerator pedal up high under the dash, if you really push your foot into the accelerator it will actuate the switch and turn off the AC until you let off somewhat of the accelerator pedal.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
whats a good place to get an inexpensive pressure gauge so I can check the LP side? my work only has the ability to do new systems and does not have the proper hoses/fittings for the r12 system

also, If I were to retrofit to 134, I'm not sure where to go--I asked my work and called reveal places yesterday and no one will touch the r12 systems, they say the fines and disposal rules are too strict to even mess with them any more
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geogonfa
Member Avatar


since you still have an r12 system this is what you would need to switch the system...
(though I would highly recommend using evirosafe freon so you would not have to change your cores, compressor, expansion valve, or lines...
And considering you might have a leak, you should change out all your "O" rings...
Freon:
https://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-R134a-Refrigerant-Dye-Cans/dp/B01DPSPTZO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1528214505&sr=8-3&keywords=envirosafe+freon
Gauges/gauge:

https://www.harborfreight.com/ac-r134a-manifold-gauge-set-62707.html

Though I recommend using a high side and low side manifold set, there is this...
https://www.amazon.com/Enviro-Safe-3226-Can-Tap-Gauge/dp/B008BLBKCC/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B008BLBKCC&pd_rd_r=e38cd740-68d9-11e8-a12a-ad7a82811235&pd_rd_w=yW6dZ&pd_rd_wg=bh8vZ&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=3914568618330124508&pf_rd_r=AVVGJT2BPC0RZGBNDV08&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=AVVGJT2BPC0RZGBNDV08


"O" rings:
Amazon

read the posts from geo's garage:
http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=3041747&t=8111407

http://geometroforum.com/single/?p=3034823&t=8111407
Edited by Metromightymouse, Jun 5 2018, 01:26 PM.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
I thought that the envirosafe was a "no-no" --isn't it propane/butane mix?


this is what my hvac (home a/c tech) buddy told me :
"In the United States it is illegal to use a hydrocarbon refrigerant as a substitute for a Class I or Class II ODS refrigerant for any end use other than industrial process refrigeration systems, or retail food refrigerators and freezers (stand-alone units only)."
He said that propane works better than any other refrigerant but they can't use it except in a few situations due to its flamability


I am unsure if I should convert to 134, lots of reviews I see say that 134 in a 12 system don't cool properly (though it would be better than what I have) --some say you have to change all the o-rings and other stuff, others say just put the adapters on, drain system(properly of course) and add the 134--some say you have to pull a vacuum on the system, others say you don't --some say add oil, others say dont

guess thats what I get for not being trained properly ---unfortunately, I don't see too many options, if licensed auto ac techs won't touch the system due to regs and fines--what other options do I have than try to under take it myself (I had several of the local shops tell me that if I brought the system in "empty" then they would convert it, but they don't want to "reclaim or release" anything that has the r12 sticker on it. )
Edited by 92MHB, Jun 5 2018, 12:04 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
lets go back to trouble shooting--can't really test the temp cut off sensor without testing the LP side for pressure--right? since low presure will cut out the system
if my system sometimes works it's probably not the a/c amplifier, right?

which leaves me to test 2 things--1st is jump the pressure switch to see if the system runs-but if its running at the time then how would I test that, 2nd would be to connect a gauge and check the LP side for proper pressure

now back to question, where does one get an inexpensive pressure gauge set with the proper fittings for r12? (3/8 and 7/16" )


now if I wanted to switch to 134 I should change the evap valve, o-rings, and find a bigger condensor core--also flush the system of mineral oil, add ester oil and then pull a vac on the system before I refill with the 134---if all thjat is needed then why do all these companies advertise all you have to do is change the valves and fill with 134?


if I buy the envirosafe, and go that rouite--do I need to get rid of the R12 in the system before adding the ES?
Edited by 92MHB, Jun 5 2018, 12:59 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
David95237


https://www.ebay.com/itm/R12-R22-R134A-R502-HVAC-A-C-Auto-Refrigerant-Charging-Service-Manifold-Gauge-Set/322572731069?epid=25003502437&hash=item4b1ad542bd:g:B84AAOSwkRhZVX2~
I have r12 for $20 a can.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
David95237
Jun 5 2018, 01:09 PM
thanks, saw that yesterday on ebay and I didn't realize that gauge came with multiple fittings, thought it was just the hoses and you had to buy adapters too

edit-- nope, gotta by fittings too--bummer


Edited by 92MHB, Jun 10 2018, 02:11 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
so here is what I have so far (leaning slowly)
I can't test the high side yet, as the gauge set does not come with the proper adapter fitting for the high side on my 92 metro

low side--tested last evening when it was about 85 degrees==low side with motor running was right around 30 psi

tested again this morning when temp was 68 degrees, motor not running pressure was 90psi---motor running with compressor kicked in, pressure was 28psi

probably low on r12 but can't check the high side yet

I think I'm getting close to knowing just enough to get my self in trouble--more learning to do still--thanks so far
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
............
Edited by 92MHB, Jun 25 2018, 02:00 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
evmetro


92MHB
Jun 19 2018, 08:20 PM
Ok, so I was low on r12, I added a little bit not really that much.

Now when 70 deg outside my low side is 40psi at idle and 30psi when I bump the engine speed up---
The high side is sitting right about 225

Air is blowing at right about 43degrees inside

Do all these numbers look right now?

Currently when 70 degrees the a/c seems to be running correctly (but I only ran the car for about 10 minutes on the road-- real test is tomorrow after work when its close to 90)
Close, but the R12 should blow in the 30s. You know it is dialed in when you see mist coming out of the vents. 134 will never blow mist, but R12 will. What was the outside temp when you got these readings?
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
it was 70 Deg.

Still not working 100% correct, better but not right yet. I'll check a few more things
Edited by 92MHB, Jun 25 2018, 02:03 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
so hopefully someone will chime in to help me out

what are the pressures I'm supposed to be seeing at 90 degrees outside temp? My system has not been running at all (not kicking in the compressor) so I jumpered the pressure switch today and it runs, its cold but not great.

at 90 degrees the low side is 50 psi at idle, and the high side is 212, and I can see bubbles in the sight glass --I still don't see any oil leaks anywhere

I know it could be the actual switch thats bad, or I could be too high or too low on pressures--I can't seem to be able to find a chart for R12 pressures anywhere

Edited by 92MHB, Yesterday, 6:20 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geogonfa
Member Avatar


With R-12 @ 90° low side should read 35-45 and the High side @ 225 -250...
At 2k rpm You should see the low side drop to 35, (if lower than 32 freon is low, if higher than 60 than look for a blockage),
and the high side climb to around 300, (max @ 350)...
There should be no bubbles in the sight glass if your using R-12...134a there will be considerable bubbles...
Just curious, have you tried grounding out the intake manifold temp sensor to see if the system will operate normally?...
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
92MHB
Advanced Member
[ *  *  *  * ]
geogonfa
Jul 9 2018, 06:42 PM
With R-12 @ 90° low side should read 35-45 and the High side @ 225 -250...
At 2k rpm You should see the low side drop to 35, (if lower than 32 freon is low, if higher than 60 than look for a blockage),
and the high side climb to around 300, (max @ 350)...
There should be no bubbles in the sight glass if your using R-12...134a there will be considerable bubbles...
Just curious, have you tried grounding out the intake manifold temp sensor to see if the system will operate normally?...
Thank you for those numbers --so I'm high on my low side and low on my high side?

I did not ground the temp sensor, but when I plug/unpluged it last time it would cycle on/off--maybe the temp switch has gone bad in the last few weeks-- I'll go check it and report back shortly
Edited by 92MHB, Yesterday, 7:03 PM.
Offline Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
geogonfa
Member Avatar


"so I'm high on my low side and low on my high side? "
Ʌ Ʌ Ʌ Usually mean your low on freon... Ʌ Ʌ Ʌ
Edited by geogonfa, Yesterday, 6:50 PM.
Online Profile Quote Post Goto Top
 
1 user reading this topic (1 Guest and 0 Anonymous)
Go to Next Page
« Previous Topic · Air Conditioning/Heating · Next Topic »
Add Reply